The Gibb River Road

26th May Saturday

7am and 16degs, good night in LRover. Very windy, Colin checked under vehicle, all ok, then tyre pressures, looks like we have slow puncture in one, not worth changing unless we have to. we are the last to leave the camp area and it is only 8.30 and temp only 18degs. Rose has kept her trousers on and Colin still wearing his jumper. First water crossing is Bell Ck,

 lots of stones on road. Took road to Bell Gorge, 29kms from G.R.R, passing through the ranges and plains, reminding us of African plains,

 lots of dust from traffic 

 and through a few water crossings. The walk to the gorge was rocky but worth it. The river with small weirs

feed into a pool which then has the waterfall at the other end, 

absolutely stunning, it looks like an infinity pool. 

Drove back to G.R.R. and stopped at Imintji Store for cuppa, then carried on to our next stop for the night at Hann River(bush camping). The road has been sandy, dusty and very rocky in places along with corrugations. We have crossed 19 water crossings so far since begining G.R.R. Bed early as getting cold, sleeping in LRover again.

27th May Sunday

What a cold night, at 6.30 only 8degs, Rose has Tshirt shirt and jumper on Colin has 2 Tshirts and jumper. We definately have a puncture, Colin has found it and it's repairable, which he'll do before we move on today. Sat in sun trying to warm up. Tyre plugged(nail in tread), left site 9.15 Rose not feeling good. Had to stop after 50km as tyre gone down again, Colin changed the wheel quickly, just as finished a ute going the other way stopped to make sure we were ok. Turned off G.R.R. onto The Kalumburu Rd towards Drysdale Station, the corrugations

 are awful in places. Drysdale Station has a shop, car repairs,deisel at $2.08 and camping, $30 unpowered, we have grass, trees and showers, there is even a bar and restaurant. Total water crossings today 8. 

28 May Monday

Brrrr night, 7am 8 degrees, glad we had all the bedding last night. Another camper lit a fire to keep warm. Turned into a lovely sunny day. Colin has replugged the tyre and given the LRover a maintenance check, I have done domestic duties like laundry and given the cooker a clean, probably shouldn't bother as the dust will come back quickly. Sorted my clothes and put clothes that have got too big into a bag for a charity shop, will just have to go clothes shopping when I get home. Had a BBQ for dinner the steaks were lovely and tender then sat around the coals to keep warm.

29 May Tuesday

Not such a cold night, tyre still deflating. Left Drysdale Station just after 9am. the station covers approx 1 million acres. It took us an hour to drive back to the GRR. The road is hilly and twisty today, support vehicles for the Gibb Bike challenge have gone past us but we caught them up at the ROADWORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!. 

We saw the grader parked up waiting for us to pass. Stopped at a water crossing, the biggest yet, 

it was fun watching other vehcles crossing over. Further up the road had to stop as a bull with horns was in the road, 

Colin had to back up as it started to charge at us, we waited a few minutes then it walked off into the bush, the most dangerous animal encounter yet. Some of the views over the plains have been amazing, 

keep expecting to see african wildlife walk before us. We are driving through the Pentacost Ranges 

and the views are magnificent, just a shame about the mistiness. Arrived at Home Valley Station for 1 night, it is like a holiday resort with pools, horse riding and they arrange tours, we are even camping on grass. You can see the mistiness from the camp towards the Cockburn Range in the distance. 21 water crossings today.

30th May Wednesday

Early morning, warmer night 6.30am and 16degs. Left site at 9am, first water crossing is the Pentacost River, 

it was so good Colin did it 3 times.

 The road is dreadfulwith stones and corrugations,

 down to 20kph at times. Stopped at Emma Gorge Resort but they wanted to charge $10 each to walk to the waterfall, too expensive to walk just 3kms return. Made it to the end of the G.R.R. , 

Now onto Wyndam, back on the bitumen. 8 water crossings today. Stopped at the Grotto, 144 steps down then the same back up again, at the end of the pool

 is a waterfall, but only in the wet season, we are in the dry, still nice to clamber as saw Boab trees clinging to the sides of the cliff.

 Keep seeing quadruple trucks along the road, they are massive. The scenery is more rolling hills then mountains, and salt flats. Decided to stop at Wyndam for the night. Since we left Derby we have covered 940kms and ran out of fuel in both tanks in the caravan park, what timing, after 800kms of corrugations and 56 water crossings we have used 90ltrs of fuel. Stopping at Wyndam Caravan Pk for 2 nights as there is plenty to see here. Walked up to local servo and had 2 hot pies for dinner followed by fruit and custard back at camp. Rose rang Marion and had a nice chat.

31st May Thursday

Bit chilly in night but was able to remove and straighten it before putting it back everthing else seems to be ok. Wyndam is WAs most northerly town, it was originally a port for the East Kimberley gold fields but the port is now used for the export of iron ore and the cattle industry. The Cambridge Gulf is home to some of the largest saltwater crocodiles in the world. We visited the Crocodile Farm in the morning in time for the feeding tour. 

The oldest croc aged 98 died last year, the oldest they have now is called Donald, 

looks good for 93. Some of their crocs have been given to them as they were a menace to local communities and they now use some of them as part of their breeding program. They have black crocs

 which are supposed to be the meanest and a youngster that is white (very rare). 

When the young crocs get to 2years old they are sold and eventually to be made into high quality leather goods, like snappy handbags.. The guide took us round feeding crocs as we went, it was amazing how quick, agile and fierce they were. 

At times some havebroken their enclosure fencings. Today they were pretty lazy as it was too cold at 30degs. We also managed to get a reduction on entry as Colin is a senior, well worth the trip. When left the crocs we drove to the port to The Old Tin Shop and bought a print of a Boab tree by a NZ artist who settled in Oz, then across the road for lunch at the local hotel,

of Barramundi(in a beer batter) burger with chips, fantastic, the burger was taller than a Coke can, we were stuffed so headed back to camp to recover. Stopped for gas bottle refill and to look at the Big Croc, 

it was constucted in the 1980s by a group of students as a reminder of all the crocs found in East Kimberley. After 6pm rang and spoke to Dee, good chat, she has bought the Keishi(seed) pearls she wanted, Rose told her last bit of cake would be eaten tonight. Good busy day.

1st June Friday

FRIDAY FACT:- ARGYLE DIAMOND MINE IN THE KIMBERLEY'S PRODUCES MORE DIAMONDS THAN ANY OTHER MINE IN THE WORLD.

Bit warmer last night, there are a scattering of clouds in the sky. There is also a donkey 

on the site and came to visit us while packing up. After packing up popped into library and uploaded blog for last week, drove out of town and saw some camel silhouettes

 in commeration of the Afghans and their camels who helped transport goods before roads. Looking for dirt road to Marglu Billabong, a bit rough in places. Stopped on Telegraph Hill and you can see down to the billabong and the land around it,

 wonderful views. Down the track to the billabong, an amazing amount of water birds

 and the flowers in the water are lovely.

 Found the macro setting on the camera to take close ups of the flowers. When we left we found a dirt track

 that had no signs, but going in the right direction, kicking up a lot of bull dust, parts of the track resemble green lanes at home. Eventually found Parry Creek Rd heading to Kununurra looking for Mambi Island Rest Area for the night, found the sign, it is a lovely setting by the River Ord, found a place to pitch tent, 

not close to the river, after being at the croc reserve you become a bit wary. There are lots of Kangaroos and Cranes,

 so peaceful. Plenty of mossies, with a warm evening.

The Kimberley

19th May Saturday

Cold night and the bites are itchy and sore. Al and Dee gone to Broome today to the market so we are looking after Lily, their poodle, she is such a nice natured dog. After Al and Dee left we took Lily for a walk along the beach,

 the rocks on the beach where the sea comes in look like jewels, and the sea has a red tinge due to the red rocks in the water.

 Lovely walk. Back at site John and Sue joined us for a cuppa and a chat, before we knew it, was lunchtime. Day goes so fast. as afternoon wore on it clouded over. Lovely chatty evening Al and dee had come back with pressies for us of a picture and freshwater pearl earrings for Rose. It will be hard to say our final farewell. Went to beach to watch the sunset but not as spectacular as previous evening.

20th May Sunday

Hot and sunny with a lovely breeze, did laundry and have no energy for anything else. Cooked bacon butties for breakfast for Al and Dee and us. Too lazy to do anything, days are exhausting, finally struggled across campground and had a shower. Dee has given us 2 cakes she baked today. She is trying to set up Skype on her ipod so we can talk to each other when we get home. Early to bed as very tired.

21st May Monday

Dee is on Skype and we can now contact each other. Packed up and away by 8.30. Gave Dee Rose's purple poncho to keep her warm at night:) Our final goodbyes as they are off on a cruise and we are off to The Gibb River Rd. Left station back onto HWay to Broome, long straight roads again, but the bush is green. Very little traffic. As we get closer to Broome traffic building. Went to the library but no computer available till the afternoon so decided will upload when we get to Derby. Found shopping centre, not very impressive, just had a snack and did our small bit of shopping before finding fuel. Drove to the famouse Cable Beach, 

it is 22kms long, the sea looks a beautiful blue, there are people on the beach and lifeguards, had a bite of lunch and decided to drive back to Roebuck Plains Roadhouse to camp for the night. Colin feeling weary. Nice site with swimming pool also camping on grass. Bits and pieces for dinner tonight, can't be bothered to cook. Hope not too noisy with traffic. An older couple out for a walk stopped to chat, they had seen us at De Grey Rest Area, it's like follow my leader up the road. Early to bed as getting chilly.

22nd May Tuesday

Cold night, temperature at 6.30 is 12degs, very cold for us, but the sun is out. Tried to get away early but as usual got talking to the neighbours Marilyn and Gary who are also heading to Derby tomorrow. Left site at 8.30 on Gt Northern HWay to Derby. Landscape very green and lots of trees. Stopped at Willare Roadhouse 

and were given 2 big mugs of tea free so just had to have homemade Quiche to help it go down. Found a great pictorial book about the Gibb River Rd (G.R.R.) in the roadhouse shop. Continued onto Derby passing Boab trees on the way. Stopped at the Boab Prison Tree,

 which was used to hold Aboriginals(it was hollow) and as entrance was narrow only needed one guard. The Boab is a deciduous tree indiginous to this area, it is a protected species and even roads are built round the trees. When at Derby picked up the LRover part from the post office and made our way to the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Pk for 3 nights($36 pn powered) ouch, but only few minutes walk to the shops and nice shady site. Went to bed early, a neighbour has his TV on outside watching the Block followed by a documentary, then later some outdoor entertainment with a DJ came wafting over, we had only said in the afternoon what a lovely quiet place.

23rd May Wednesday

Ricky's birthday. Warm night, eventually got to sleep. Colin fitting part today. Colin fitted part, tightened bolts and will finish off tomorrow with the oils. Rose walked to library after lunch to upload blog, internet very slow so only got charged $3. John and Sue have seen Colin and we will walk down later to see them. We walked round the camp trying to find them, turned out they were just across the road from us, had a great couple of hours with them and their neighbours Kev and Dot. John and Sue are leeving tomorrow so will swap phone numbers as they live in Brisbane and will be home in July. Our neighbours with the TV outside have the footie on and you can hear it from 50mtrs, then the music started with DJ up till 11pm. Rose Robyn and had a lovely chat, Colin tried Ricky and Emma but both went to voicemail.

24th May THursday

Awake early and up at 6.30, bit chilly this morning, had to put jumpers on, only 18degs. After saying goodbye to John and Sue went for a drive to the Jetty 

where the tides race in and out at an alarming 10knots per hour and can rise up to 12mtrs, we saw the tide on the low side ,

 when it is in it reaches the top of the jetty, it was very windy and you felt that you could be blown into the sea. Back in to the visitor centre to buy a tea towel memento for ourselves. Topped up shopping at IGA and got fresh meat cryovaced at the butchers. Colin spoke to Sir Peter and Laurie on the phone, he had also finished maintenance of the LRover, so all need tomorrow is check tyres and fuel up.

25th May Friday

FRIDAY FACT;- DERBY HAS AUSTRALIA'S HIGHEST TIDAL RANGE AND THE 2ND HIGHEST IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE.

Nicky's birthday. Up early and left site 8.45, fueled up. We have heard there is a charity BMX ride starting Sunday from Broome to Kununara with several hundred bikes and their support crews heading across the G.R.R. 

The G.R.R. was initially constructed to transport cattle from surrounding stations to the ports of Derby and Wyndham, it is over 700kms and travels through central Kimberley Plateau from King Sound at Derby to Cambridge Gulf in Wyndham. The road is bitumen for first 80kms then it changes to dirt and gravel. After 3kms we stopped at Mowanjum Art and Culture Centre, which features the local indiginous art. It was very different from the art we have seen previously. Back onto the G.R.R. to Wyndjana Gorge 

passing very green landscape with Boab trees 

in amongst others, some of the Boabs look like bottles with sticks poking out the top whilst others remind Rose of the trees in Lord Of The Rings, and seem to be waving as you pass. Windjana Gorge is 3.5kms in length and was forged by The Lennard River through an ancient Devonian Reef. The rocks are amazing and the river winds through sandy banks,

 we saw crocodiles

 (freshwater) basking in the sun and got to within 50mtrs of one, it was fantastic. Whilst there we bumped into Ron and Carol and also Heath who we met at Indee Station, they were on a trip out of Broome. After leaving the gorge we went back onto the G.R.R. to find our rest area for the night, couldn't find it so drove on through the King Leopold Range Conservation Pk past The Queen Victoria Rock, 

amazing rock formation again. Eventually found March Fly Glen Rest Area for the night , sleeping in the LRover tonight. Nice and shady and friendly chatty fellow campers. Drove more than anticipated today and the road conditions have been pretty good, even with corrugations, gone through some water but not very deep, one crossing got windscreen wet.

the Pilbara

　

　

12th May Saturday.

Very cold night. Packed up and left camp at 8.30. Karijini Drive to the Northern HWay towards Port Headland. Has warmed up nicely now. Lovely hilly landscape, rock formations

 are amazing. Saw our first quadruple road train.

Stopped at Auski Roadhouse(Munjura) for a cuppa and saw several more quads and some escorted rigs come into servo, an amazing amount of red dust

thrown up when air brakes are applied. Now driving through flatlands towards Mungaroona Range Nat Reserve where the scenery changes from barren

to stoney outcrops

 and hills in the distance, also soil not quite as red. No stop for lunch, pressed on for Indee Station, 9kms on dirt road. When we arrived we were given a cup of tea before signing in, only $20pn (no powered sites), camp kitchen, laundry(gold coin donation to RFDS), it also has mobile reception if you really want to climb a great big hill. Happy hour 6-7 and they swop money for drinks as they are not allowed to sell it. Wandered along after 6 and left just about 8 when the workers came in for their dinner, nice pleasant evening chatting. The station used to keep sheep but now has cattle.

13th May Sunday

Warm night, nice breeze first thing, we have been given a map to Red Rock so might drive out later, after domestic duties. Left site to drive along sandy tracks to Red Rock,

 had a walk round it past the rock pools


and up the other side, views are amazing

can see over to the Northern HWay. On the way back found the Aboriginal Rock Engravings, they are very faint. we drove onto the River Pools and saw an eagle/hawk?

stood on a sandbank in the middle of the river. Had toput LRover in 4 wheel drive

and low box at times due to soft sand/rocky bits, it was good to have a drive out, just relaxed and caught up with blog ready to upload when we get to Port Headland. 5 other campers arrived during afternoon, so happy hour was busy. Nice to chat to different people.

14th May Monday

Happy first anniversary Karen and Graig. Up at 6.30 lovely morning. Had breakfast with Rachel and Heath in the camp kitchen. Left at 8.45, back on the Northern HWay. to Port Headland. Indee Station was a great place to stay. First stop in Port Headland was Post Office, parcel not arrived so contacted spares company to get tracking number, back to P.O. and have arranged for parts to be delivered to Derby P.O. Found fuel station and filled up ($1.63) and with water, then over to Woolies for food before finding our way to library. Port Headland is not a place to visit unless you like industrial ports. The landscape as we pass through is featureless with some hills suddenly standing in the middle of nothing. Past the turn off for Marble Bar started getting trees. we pulled into the Grey River Rest Area ti find it has toilets, it has nice grass, trees, river, shade and sun so decided to stay for a few nights, also the breeze is cooler here. Early night.

15th May Tuesday

Warm night, Colin thought he heard something in the night, it was the cattle in the area. Cattle are allowed to wander at will, a lot of stations are not fenced so livestock everywhere which is why you can see dead cattle everywhere on the road. Had a walk down to the De Grey river, which is spanned by a road bridge and rail bridge. A fellow camper was telling us 4years ago there were warning signs up about crocodiles in the river, they had swum up river from the sea. It makes a change to see water in a river bed, can see lots of dragon flies and water is very clear. Breeze has got up this arvo which is very welcome, we keep being told it should be quite a bit cooler now at this time of year. Went out for a walk just before dusk (6pm) and still a few campers coming into the area.

16th May Wednesday

They can keep their blue tailed Kookaburras and cows, both started up when still dark before 6am. It reallyis a lovely spot. Had a chat with another LRover owner and gave them our Email address to give them advice on bringing their LRover to the U.K. Didn't get away till 9am. Message from Al and Dee they are still at Stanley Rest Area for another couple of nights. The road is straight and landscape is quite green with grass bushes. Stopped at Pardoo RHouse for gas bottle refill, only $14 and treated ourselves to a cuppa and shared the best sausage roll in Oz. Stopped at Sandfire RHouse for lunch, they have peacocks wandering through the car park. Landscape now very very flat with no trees or bushes, then it changed again back to trees and bushes. Arrived at Goldwire Rest Area 3ish to find Al and Dee all set up, It is greatto see them again. Had a cuppa then set up tent, nice spot with sun and shade. A lady by the name of Sue followed us in , she had been at De Grey the night before. After chatting and dinner Al set up T.V. outside and we watched a DVD of them on their Whale Shark swimming trip, it looked amazing, showing them snorkling on Ninggaloo Reef, then with the Whale Sharks. Also saw a DVD of th ePilbara and Kimberley regions, the views are amazing. Great evening and mozzies out tonight.

17th May Thursday

Not such a cold night woke to lovely sunny morning. Could hear the roadtrains but nothing after 10pm. Ned(caretaker) at local property came to area this morning with the local zebra rock, some in the raw state and some polished up, it is beatiful, he also showed us some polished stones made from ribbon rock. Rose bought a polished rock

and he gave her a raw state zebra rock.

Sue(hairdresser) decided to stay another night so the 5 of us just sat around talking for the rest of the day. Ned came back for happy hour and gave us some small blocks of local ribbon rock they are also beatiful, it seems you use 1200 grade wet and dry to get the shape and to polish it up then vynil floor polish to give it the shine. Later a couple called John and Sue who we met at Osprey and Exmouth pulled in and joined us, they are also going to Barn Hill Station tomorrow. Dee gave Rose an aerial for the mobile broadband to boost the signal and it works, got internet but still no phone!! She also gave us some homemade tomato and apple chutney-delicious. Great day.

18th May Friday

FRIDAY FACT;- COVERING THE SAME AREA AS FRANCE, THE SHIRE OF EAST PILBARA IS THE LARGEST SHIRE IN THE WORLD.

Forgot to set the alarm, we wanted an early start as we have so far to travel today 38kms:). Last night Colin was talking to Al and Al described Rose as being "petite" what a compliment. 36kms and 45mins later including 10kms dirt road we are at Barn Hill Station. Decided to stay 2 nights with power ($25 pn) and on grass and shade next to Al and Dee. An old bloke stopped to speak with Colin about the LRover. he has a tray back LR from 1972 with over 1.2 million kilometres on the clock. We went and had a look at his vechicle and the changes he had made to make it into a motorhome with a pop-top roof,

he showed us how he had gained extra storage

inside and out. Had a walk down to the beach and then back to have a shower, the toilets and showers are open to the sky, wonderful. The camp is in the middle of a working cattle station, which covers over 430,000 acres and 83 kms of coastline, and is only open from May to October. Rose has some huge insect bits on legs and they are very itchy. Colin and Al went fishing but all they did was get wet, an amazing sunset. Sat chatting till late, after 9pm