Monday 25 June 2012

Going South



16th June Saturday

Natalie's Birthday.

Had a trip out today to Bitter Springs Thermal Pool,
                                                        
absolutely lovely, steady 32degs all year round, the water was crystal clear and the current gently carries you along to the other end of the pool. You can see the rocks and sand on the bottom


and you are swimming with pink lillies

 beside you, Rose managed to swim into a rock-ouch. Drove back to Mataranka and Colin sent birthday message to Natalie (had phone signal). On way back to camp stopped at an Aboriginal war site, it was just a plaque and concrete pad. back at camp lit camp fire, covered ourselves in insect repellant and cooked jacket potatoes and sausages, lovely. sky not as clear tonight and no bats around.

17 June Sunday

Bit of a damp morning with condensation in the tent, left camp at 9am heading south on Stuart HWay to Daly Waters Historic Pub. there are lots of caravans passing us going north. It is a long boring road but very green vegetation bordering it. We stopped at Larimah to see the Big Stubby and Pink Panther.


  Larimah is a Caravan Park and Pub and it painter bright pink. Back onto the road and reached Daly Waters at lunchtime, only $28 for 2 nights, we are in the overflow paddock, shortly after the rush started and there were vans queuing in the road to get onto the site, never seen anything like it. Daly Waters had the first international airport in Oz and was a rear guard base after the bombing of Darwin in WW11. The famous pub was originally a water supply point for drovers before crossing the perilous Murranji Stock Route. The pub is full of character with memorabilia



 left by previous visitors, ranging from knickers, thongs, t shirts, beer mats and stickers, it is also famous for it's food speciality of beef and Barra (fish). There is entertainment every evening by a chap called Chilly, he sings, tells stories and recites bush poetry. People are still coming to the camp after dark. We could hear the entertainment at our site, we laid in bed and it was hilarious, didn't hear the end as went to sleep.

18 June Monday

Wind got up in the night. People are leaving the site at 7.30, Colin said he heard them leaving earlier. Went for a walk along the John Mcdouall Stuart Heritage Trail, who was the explorer who discovered Daly Waters 28 May 1861. Stuart and his party stayed in the area for quite a whilw plotting the landscape and finding waterholes, opening the eay for the Overland Telegraph line, which would link Oz to the rest of the world. The trail takes you past the famous Stuart tree, where it is said Stuart carved the initial "S", past the now demolished buildings that surrounded the tree and onto the abandoned hangar at the Airport. There is a pictorial display of the history of the area right up to the present day. The old airfield is now owned by the National Trust. Nice walk. Went inside the pub and took photos of the memorabilia as well as the Servo


 and gift/trinket shop.

  There don't seem to be many visitors today. After dinner walked over to the pub for the entertainment - 1 pint and 1 sprite £10.70 ooh! Colin nursed his pint all night, caught the end of the stint by a lady saxophanist, she was really good, then Chilly came on. he told stories and poems of life happenings and sang along with his guitar. He was very funny and had us in stitches. he started life as a stockmen herding cows and horses but everything done by vehicle now so he's on his 2nd career. Brilliant night.

19 June Tuesday

Cooler night, some campers left early again. Got packed up and away just after 9am, back onto the Stuart HWay going south, lots of yellow flowers on roadside bushes, then the trees thinned out, you can see for miles either side of the road. Stopped for a break at Newcastle Waters rest area, it has got increasingly windy along the road. Just north of Elliott there was a Police roadblock, they were stopping all vehcles. First of all Colin was given a breath test by a cop, then another officer asked for his driving licence and the registration of the vechicle, we gave him all the paperwork including the insurance and Carnet, he looked at the carnet and we were sent on our way. Stopped at Renner Springs for lunch stop, then just a short drive to Banka Banka station for the night, we both think this road reminds us of the Nullabor. There is a bush poetry reading tonight at the kiosk, nice site. Parked next to a 1998 Discovery with Oz tent and the other side of him id a Disco 3. after dinner went to the campfire at the kiosk for the bush poetry (needed the fire as getting cold). The reading was really good and very funny, will never look a velcro without seeing the problems it causes.

20 June Wednesday

10 degrees this morning, left site and back onto Stuart HWay, followed a brown tourist sign onto the old Stuart Hway, for approx 13 km before back on new road. You can see for miles. We saw 3 stockmen herding cows alngside then highway,


 we are certainly seeing more outback life in the Northern Territory. 11 am and only 20 degrees, wearing my scarf. Stopped at Lake Mary Dam ,

it was opened in 1979/80 and is a local picnic area just before Tennant Creek, very pretty, had lunch and drove into TCreek, we stopped for bread but the town does not have a friendly feel, lots of shops boardedup. Drove out to Juno bushcamp but close so back into town and booked into the Outback Caravan Pk for the night. Good camp kitchen, cooked tomorrow night's dinner as well, filled our gas bottle for only $8. Checked weather for Alice Springs we are heading, it is zero degrees at night, looks like we will be acclimatising the other way, ready for autumn in the UK. Colin rang Sir Peter of Leongatha, he and Marj are at Bourke in NSW on a short trip, shame we won't be able to meet up with them. Night starting to chill down so went in tent to keep warm, getting dark early again.

21 June Thursday

Shortest day.

10 deg in vechicle, chilly night, Colin wore socks in bed. Leaving here today, slow pack up, filled up with fuel and few bits of shopping and treated ourselves to a Lamington Roll, then to library to upload blog, finally left town after 11 am onto the Devils Marbles


 (104km) for the night, arrived just after lunch. As you drive in the rock formations are amazing, the campground is right beside the rocks, the other name for them is Karlu Karlu. It is a big campground and by the time it got dark . Stopping a couple of nights so will have a walk out tomorrow. Watched the sun go down over the rocks. Saw dingo walk through after dark.

22 June Friday

FRIDAY FACT- Daly Waters has held a liquor licence since 1893, making it the oldest pub in Northern territory

Woke up at 3am, at 3.15 the wind started, at 3.30 we got up and took the awning on the Landrover down, you could hear caravan owners winding in their awnings. 8am still windy, one of the poles holding the flysheet fell down causing the fly to flap noisily but other than that all in one piece. The wind is very cold. As a campervan drove out the dingo sat down in front of it, almost like it was posing, as everyone went for their cameras


 a stupid itiot fed it some toast (just what you shouldn't do). Our neighbours have a camper trailer and due to the cooker being outside can't even boil an billy dueto the wind, we pulled out our windbreak
and set it up so they can at least cook. In the afternoon a wind gust tore the back of the flysheet clean off. The Devils Marbles



were formed by volcanic eruption, then weather erosion left just the granite rocks you see today. Campers not coming in so early today, just had dinner when a young lad from a family we met in Cape range asked us over to their campfire, the boys filled us in on their travels, feeling toasty in places before bed.


Wednesday 20 June 2012

Top End

9th June Saturday

After packing up stopped at Timber Creek for bread then back to Victoria HWay to our next camp spot. Landscape is green with lots of trees,


 road is bumpy. The road winds through the Stokes Ranges surrounding us with tree covered hills,

 the road then passes back into The Gregory Nat Pk. Saw a sign Old Victoria River Crossing,

so followed it, 4wd only, down to the river where Colin had to play and get the wheels wet,

 beautiful setting

just have to keep watch for the crocs. Arrived at Sullivan camp just before lunch, not ideal for a tent but we set up anyway, not sure whether to stay more than one night. Whilst on the road the camera came up with a message, we have filled the SD card, looks like will have to buy a new one in Katherine. Spent time backing up photos and Colin cleared out back of vehicle

10th June Sunday

Both slept all night, decided to stop one more night. Colin found another puncture in the tyre he had repaired, another tiny nail just next to the other one, plugged it yet again,keep fingers crossed this will do it. Made a list of things to do and see in Katherine. Worked out time and distance to cover to meet Marion and Laurie in August, and we don't have time to visit Darwin, so will head south towards Alice when we leave Katherine. Walked down to the billabong,


didn't see any crocs. People started to come into campsite just as we were thinking of having a shower. There were Teresa and Brian in a camper trailer John and Mary in a caravan and Karyn and Paul in a big motorhome towing a Suzuki Vitara. We all gathered round the picnic table for drinks and chat. gave up on shower and just hid behind a big towel and strip washed. Teresa and Brian had a Barra that she hade been given so Brian lit the camp fire and we all chipped in with bits of food and had a smorgorsboard that we all just dipped into, and as Karyn was travelling towards the WA boarder all her spuds went in as well. we had a great evening with wonderful company, one of our best. Went to bed as getting cold.

11th June Monday

10 degs, it's cold. Condensation in tent and chairs are damp. Everyone up, Karyn and Paul the first to leave heading towards Lake Argyle, took a while to say goodbyes, then we left at 9.45 heading to Katherine as are John and Mary, Teresa and Brian are staying another night. Great bunch of people. Along Victoria HWay road surface is not so good in places, the landscape very green, lots of trees, some of which are coming into flower, again a lovely cerise pink. Lots of traffic mainly caravans. Pulled into Katherine Springvale Homestead Caravan Pk just before lunch, stopping for 3 nights. It is big and spacious with a pool and Billabong with pretty pink water lillies




 in it. The ablutions need a bit of TLC but fine for the price. In the afternoon 2 older ladies in a Wicked Van pulled up to ask a question, we didn't know where to look as the female driver had a beard and moustache that any man would be proud of. You see everthing in Oz. Got phone signal so caught up with EMails, the Kendalls we met in the UK are now in Oz waitingfor customs to clear their vehicle (wish them luck),so might meet up with them as it's not such a big country:) Got chilly as evening went on so bed early to keep warm.

12th June Tuesday

10degs, slept in till nearly 8am. Rang Cargo On Line to verify paperwork needed to ship LRover back home. Eventually got moving to go into town with a big list of things to do. First went to visitor centre who sent us to the Art Gallery as cheaper for internet, spent an hour uploading photos (very very slow) also to do photocopying and buy some mementos,then onto Red Cross shop to give them books and clothes and to buy 1 book. Found Subway and shared a foot long seafood special roll for only $7, before walking to the camping shop for new guy ropes, our are wearing out. Finally into shopping centre for body lotion, the sun and heat really dries out your skin, even Colin is flaking. Back at camp just after 3pm knackered. Now to sort out the paperwork to be posted tomorrow. We now have neighbours, Sugarbag Safaris, the driver/owner and 4 young people as passengers who muck in to put tents up and ready dinner, they kept to themselves, will have to look up name on internet as very strange for company name. Ate out of store cupboard till we get fresh meat tomorrow

13th June Wednesday

Rose has bites on the soles of her feet that were itching like crazy all night, Colin has no sympathy. Sugarbags is a small native honeybee according to the owner of the company, he also gave us some fresh noodles as he has no use for them as this tour ends tomorrow. We now have some blue guy ropes replacing the broken ones, we think it's called customising. Went into Katherine and dropped tyre off for repair, then to library to finish uploading the photos, still very slow. Found a butcher and bought lots of meat and had it cryovaced, then got rest of food. Drove out to Knots Crossing


for picnic lunch, you used to be able to cross over the Katherine River but since the building of the new bridge it's now just a picnic area,

very picturesque. Driving back to pick up tyre we got a phone call saying they were unable to repair tyre as it has a split in the side wall (no wonder could'nt fix it) when we got there they had a Bridgestone tyre with a similar tread pattern so decided to bite the bullet and get 2 new ones put on the front, $328 each ouch, should be able to get the same tyre in UK. Aint credit cards wonderful inventions, will be glad to leave Katherine it's too expensive:) Whilst walking through Katherine there are plaques set into the footpath commemorating the history of the town, one of the plaques tells of the 90 bombs that fell on the town in WW11, with only one civilian killed (oh what bad luck) We also saw a lot of Abos on the streets and sadly a lot of police. Colin spoke to Laurie and it seems the dates for Fraser Island have changed to a few days earlier, which will suit us better as will be able to spend more time with Marion and Laurie.

14th June Thursday

A busy doing nothing day, we had plans but nothing happened, staying another night, hopefully without paying. Repaired solar panel wiring and some kind person told us it is freezing at nights in Alice Springs, -2degs (don't laugh you lot at home it aint funny).

15th June Friday

FRIDAY FACT:- THE "SCHOOL OF THE AIR" IN KATHERINE HAS THE LARGEST CLASSROOM IN THE WORLD

Off to Mataranka today and the hot thermal pools 32degs. Fill up with fuel on way out, it's going to be a n expensive one. Stopped at Coles Express for fuel 126ltrs- $192 big ouch, but it was both tanks and Jerry cans. Heading south along the Stuart HWay, long straight roads, only 106kms to Mataranka. Stopped in town and had a look in the Stock Yard Gallery, some good paintings by local Abo artists and a lot more affordable than seen previously. Saw a huge termite hill,


 approx 3 times Colin's height and he's 6ft 2ins or 1.88mtrs in new money. They charge $3 for the museum but we just walked in, not the best we've seen, part of it covered WW11 when service were stationed in town, they did'nt see any action. we then drove into Elsey Nat Pk to Jalmurak Campground. it has proper toilets and hot showers all for $13.20 pn. It is lovely with our own fire pit, on which we cooked our dinner, it's like camping in a park at home(but with better weather). The Roper River begins it's journey to the Gulf of Carpentia in this park. you can even hire canoes or swim in the river from pontoons. It is a hidden jewel. The mossies are huge, people say that they have land outside the town and walk in as they are that big, at least you can see them coming.

Monday 11 June 2012

Bungle Bungles

2nd June Saturday

Another beautiful sunny start, watching the wildlife. Drove onwards along Parry Creek rd and stopped at Black Rock Falls,


 and as usual no water in the falls just a puddle at the base. Found road to Ivanhoe Crossing

 but the road to cross over is closed, just our luck,

 but the crossing is amazing. 

When arrived in Kununurra went straight to the visitor centre and got list of caravan parks, chose the cheapest, Hidden Valley C.P. and they have space. It is a lovely site situated next to the Mirima Nat Pk. You just camp wherever you like. After dinner walked to the office grass area where they have Movies Under The Stars, we watched Mama Mia, sat on the grass under the moon and stars, great evening. Could here music from tent, there is a concert on locally called Kimberley Moon, fell asleep no probs.

3rd June Sunday

Today sees the start of a new book to record our journey. Fantastic sleep, sun popping it's head out. Kununurra is an Abbo word meaning "the meeting of the big waters", the region was settled based on the cattle industry. The Ord River was dammed in 1971 to form the biggest man made lake in Oz, without which the agriculture could not be sustained. The Mirima Nat Pk which we can see from our camp 


are known as The Mini Bungle Bungle's. Sorted boxes this morning, Rose now has all her clothes in her own box. Colin repaired one of the food drawers. Went to office and booked ourselves on a flight over the Bungle Bungle's with Shoal Air tomorrow at 6am!!!! (supposed to be the best time of day- yeah) we had to give them our weights, which we had to guess as never weighed ourselves. Roses ticket cost $295 whilst Colin's only cost $280 cos he an old git. This is our treat on the trip. Had a walk into town in afternoon, only 20 mins, but only went to the IGA, the only place open. After dinner watched a bit of Avatar at the Movies Under The Stars, it was rubbish so set alarm clock for 5am and went to bed.

4th June Monday

Alarm worked, jumpers weather. Down at gate at 5.30am for pick up along with 8 others. We had the small plane with 5 seats with another couple,


 Rose had the back seat to herself and Colin got to be co-pilot. we flew out over the Ord River,

 the Diversion Dam

 and Ord Irrigation Area

then flew over Lake Argyle

 which is the biggest man made lake in Oz, it took 2 years to fill the lake and the islands you can see are the tops of mountains.

 We passed over 2 cattle stations

and the Osmond Ranges where the hills look like waves,



 then onto The Purnulu Nat Pk and The Bungle Bungles 



where you can see the sandstone beehive formations,


 then the return over the Argyle Diamond Mine

 which is owned by Rio Tinto, it is the biggest diamond producing mine in the world and has the most expensive plane runway in the southern hemisphere,

the surface has tiny diamonds in it which can't be separated out. We had a few bumps and the horizon was a bit hazy. Views were spectacular, well worth the early start. Back at camp by 8.15am, some campers are just getting up. Rose still got jumper on as wind has got up. Had a cuppa and breakfast before heading out to Ivanhoe Crossing

 to see it from the other side, it was flowing faster than a couple of days ago. 

We were told they had let water out of the dam, which is why the crossing is still closed.

 A bloke walked into the crossing to fish and his dog followed him and got washed over the weir,

 the owner was preparing to in on the end of a rope that Colin had given him when the dog finnally struggled out of the current and onto the bank,

 alls well that ends well. Drove back to town for fuel and shopping before heading back for lunch. Feels like we've been longer than we actually have, both if us feel tired. Used camp BBQ to cook dinner of pork steaks and chips, absolutely stuffed. Went to bed 6.30ish as tired.

5th June Tuesday

Warmer this morning, we are leaving Kununurra today, heading east along The Victoria HWay, crossing into the Northern Territory. Sitting having a cuppa before leaving we were watching the Kites (birds) circling overhead, fantastic sight. Left site at 9.30, visited library to upload photos, took an hour before heading onto the Victoria HWay, saw some great Boab Trees


 on the way. Stopped at the border for photos and lunch,

moved time forward 1.1/2 hours. Headed off for Saddle Creek Rest Area for the night. Bit disappointed with it not being suitable for tents, so sleeping in LRover tonight. It is situated in The Duncan Passage which is quite spectacular driving up to it. sat around picnic tables with fellow travellers, exchanging information, appears we are going the opposite way to the others, we have been given leaflets and brochures to help us with Katherine and the Nat Pks. Looks like plenty of free or very cheep camping ahead of us. as cooking dinner people kept bringing us fruit and veg as they can't take it over the border into WA with them, Colin had an apple for pudding, it was free. Got dark 6.45ish, what a change from WA when it is totally dark at 5.30pm. Ate dinner in daylight. Chatted with neighbours till bed.

6th June Wednesday

Colin said people were moving off really early this morning before daylight. We didn't get up till 8am and the site seemed empty, people already starting to come in. Rose had a look round an "A VAN" , it was amazingly spacious and the layout is very good. By the time we packed up and had more chats it was 10.45am really late. Off up The Victoria HWay towards Timber Creek. We have grass verges with cerice pink wildflowers growing. Condition of the bitumen not good in places. Stopped at Horse Creek Campground for lunch, parked by boat ramp overlooking the Victoria River, lovely spot so decided to stay for a couple of nights, just got tent set up when a Nissan Ute pulled in, it had decals on it making it look like a zebra,


reminded us of Daktari. They had loads of soft toys on the roof rack and Wonder Woman tied to the bull bar. The couple were expats from East Anglia and taken part in a Variety 4WD Challenge. Fantastic vehicle, they had various hats to wear during the Challenge, and Bill even had a monkey mask.

Great chat with them, they had moved out to Oz 6yrs ago, living in Brisbane for 5yrs then moving to Perth. Good evening.

7th June Thursday

Cold evening. Colin set to and checked out the LRover, topping oils and checking nuts and bolts, he replugged the tyre again and found a chunk missing out of the tread of another.


Quiet day, a young family came onto site who we originally met at Hamelin Pool, but most people are travelling West, we are going East. Decided to stay tomorrow night as well here, aiming to get to Katherine for monday.

8th June Friday

FRIDAY FACT:- THE LONGEST PLACE NAME IN OZ IS "MAMUNGKUKUMPURAKUNTJUNYA"

Got woken up at 6.30 this morning by some French campers slamming doors and leaving their engine running, Colin got up and told them to "either turn it off or f**k off" they turned it off then left soon after. Colin checked tyre,still up at the moment. Had a walk down to the river


and saw the jetty where the river cruise boats moor,

also saw croc footprints in the mud. Busy day doing nothing.